Basking Shark Scotland (http://baskingsharkscotland.co.uk/) selected my name out of the hat and with a bit of juggling of my schedule i was able to accept. Like a child at christmas i was bouncing at the mere thought of swimming with basking sharks. I am sure i drove everyone i know and all of my students mad with my chatter about how much i was looking forward to the trip.
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| me swimming in the secret cove!! |
Staying with my friend Chris Sifleet on the Thursday night meant that the journey was relatively pain free to Oban the following day. Arriving at the waters edge a rushed auburn headed female came rushing out of her car. Were we on the same trip, were we parked in the right place, was that our boat she could see....a volley of questions shot ourway, i could not help but giggle. Walking down the the semi-inflatable boat we were met by the grinning Shane and his boat skipper Cameron. Yes we were in the right place, we rushed to get our kit (we bought FAR too much), then to park the cars in a long stay car park. After this a chance to meet our fellow travellers, Jamie Openshaw, Achim and his wonderful wife Danielle, myself and my daughter Gemma. A nice sized group.
Availing ourselves of the lush seats, Cameron started the engine and we were off, the waters relatively choppy to start off with (so glad i had not eaten breakfast!), the skies...well if we could have seen them through the mist i would have told you what they looked like. Shane, every positive informed us that the mist would clear shortly and commended his safety brief and had us intrepid travellers complete the relevant paperwork. That done we were free to move about the boat at will...seriously...i did not know if i had sea legs and if i did at that point they did not belong to me.
Bouncing out of the harbour, Cameron, reassured me that the stomach acrobats that i was experiencing would lesson and disappear as i got used to the motion of the boat - he was right, and thankfully it did. We had not long alighted the harbour area and the sea suddenly calmed at little, the boat no longer seemed to slam against each wave and instead appeared to slice its way through the green waters. All of us alert to 'what we might see', although we were hoping to see basking sharks, we were informed that there was all manner of wildlife that we 'might' be able to see. The skies cleared to what was to turn out to be a wonderfully sunny day!
And so the waiting commenced - but not for long, slowing the boat in a wonderful little bay, all eyes were on the water looking for the elusive fin of the basking shark....now in a picture they look easy to spot...on a boat with moving water....that is not so easy. Seals curious to our presence bobbed up left, right and centre, confused no doubt by our groans at their appearance, anxious to spot the first fin in the water. And then there it was Achim had spotted it, a fin breaking the water, the fin of a minke whale, in fact we saw 4 of them moving at speed to the left of the boat. For all that the fin appears small (not sure what size i thought it would be) in comparison to the body the body is large. As fast as they arrived they drifted on in their journey of the waters. And breath....the fish were in the water....we had seen them!
Moving on the boat steadied at the helm (nautical terminology probably not being used correctly, i am sure that Cameron will correct me!), we headed on to the 'secret bay', oh and long may it remain a secret, it would have be such a shame to have turned up to find it full of people! Stunning white sand, crystal clear water, wow, it was breathtaking. I had my swimming costume on...it had to be done, adding a vest over the top to take the bite of the 9 degree water away, goggles on hat on, and there was no stopping me. Shane bless him had swam out in his dry suit to get some pics of the boat in the water, and i was lucky enough that he managed to get a snap of me swimming (see first pic). My daughter Gemma, remained on the boat as did the others while i swam so i literally had the waters to myself - heaven.
The crisp bite of the water had for the time being satisfied the urge to swim. Danielle was astounded that i had got in, touching my skin which was warm to the touch, she claimed me 'not human' and proceeded to look at me with her mouth open for a few minutes as she donned her many layers ready to put on her dry suit. We ended up laughing at her mass of clothing and my lack of!
Our overnight destination was the Isle of Coll which is 4 miles north of the Isle of Mull, housing around 200 people, its a small island 14 miles long and 4 miles wide....a jewel in the water so to speak. Heading around to one side of the island we were met enroute by a large pod of porpoises, graceful in their actions but totally focused on the task in hand, barely registering our presence. But none the less wonderful to see.
With Cameron at the helm (another nautical word....gosh i must be getting good at this) spotting for wildlife, Shane dishing out copious amounts of hot drinks and homemade goodies created by his wife (Nikki)....a very fine baker i will add...the fudge is not to be missed! I 'stole' / borrowed Shanes seat at the front of the boat, a great place for creature spotting. The other travellers having grown accustomed to the swell of the water were enjoying the views from either their seats or the back of the boat, the atmosphere relaxed and very friendly. The chatter flowing as we got to know one and other. It was a great group to be a part of.
Pretty soon the shout went out again...were we really this lucky...dolphins. Five of them off in the distance and heading the same direction as us. 3 of them broke off and headed to the boat, at a guess we could have said mum, dad and youngster. Wow, they were getting closer..and closer and then the parents appeared to hang back, the little one came within touching distance raised his head and clattered at us. A boat full of adults instantly forgot to hit the video button, we simply and collectively said wow.... for what seemed eternity but was probably only seconds he chatted away to us as if inviting us in to play, we stood spell bound at such an amazing encounter with the wildlife so close up and personal. It was truly magical and makes my heart swell just recalling the memory.
With a final dip of his head, he made a graceful turn and returned to his parents. You could have heard a pin drop on the boat, we were simply stunned into silence. Then the grins started, the day was simply turning out to be amazing!
Watching the dolphins ride off into the depths of the water one has to marvel how in that great vast body of water they managed to find us it really is difficult to fathom. It really is the ultimate feeling to see such creatures in their natural environment and for them to 'want' to interact with you, my only regret was not getting in the water with them but it was such an overpowering experience for them to come to us that it never crossed my mind at the time.
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| Fingals cave (swimmable!!!!) |
Still on the hunt for basking sharks we follow the landscape round, much of it having been exposed by the weather and water displaying the most wonderful of colours, shapes and sizes. The beaches could have been set in some of the most tropical places in the world, pure white sands and crystal clear waters, its a swimmers heaven. Shanes policy of 'if you see somewhere you want to swim let me know' is a master stroke in the open water swim world! His second policy is that if you are in the water so is he, brilliant for those less confidence in the sea to have someone so experienced along side them, of course he has his camera with him at all times...taking pictures of you taking pictures with your camera. (Jamie too managed to get one of me as i clicked away fascinated by the tentacled movements of the lions mane jellyfish!)
The seals were very curious, dancing around us, getting closer and closer, one pup did seem very happy to get within a couple of feet of us before bouncing out of view under the water without so much of a ripple in the water, as we looked into the depths, said seal would then hover in the water inviting us to play...the invite i can tell you was taken up and he did leave us a merry dance under the water, making us look like mere amateurs!
Staying over night in Coll was wonderful too, the building a new build of timber frame design, very modern and peaceful and more then adequate for our requirements, boys in one room, girls in another, a fantastically large kitchen/dining area with a great sized lounging space too.
We ate at the local Coll Hotel offering lobster at the best prices that i could not resist having one! And before you ask....no i did not share it!
Day two...of what an adventure...read it soon...its being written as you are reading this....the first day of such an amazing trip...words simply can not explain how magical and totally breathtaking it is to see the wildlife in front of you, interacting with you. Its not just a once in a lifetime experience with this company you can experience it year after year!!
